The uniform for the back half of 2026 is no stranger to the house's core dress codes: suits, lace, furs, jewels.
The scene was warmly lit against a mid-century background with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Eiffel Tower. The room felt both dynamic and minimal, anchored by a breathtaking bodice sculpture—a replica of a personal piece owned by Yves Saint Laurent—awaiting the models as they turned the corner to reveal the new collection, just as eager as the audience.
The show opened with a sophisticated run of tailored power suits, from there, the collection continued to unravel into a whirlwind of nocturnal romance defined by delicate lace and opulence.
It wouldn't be a Saint Laurent show without a nod to the Le Smoking—the androgynous revolutionary tuxedo suit inspired by men's evening wear, designed in 1966 by Yves Saint Laurent. We were welcomed with fabulous tailored suits ranging in rich black, navy, and deep brown. The blazers were wide in the shoulders with sharp lapels, but slimmed through the body that didn't leave the female figure behind.
To my delight, we were graced by lace. Delicate silhouettes ranged from pencil skirts to slip dresses, with various necklines and sleeve lengths. Burnt spices and rich primaries painted the runway. While we've seen an abundance of beautiful lacework from Anthony Vacarello before, this season felt refreshed with an iridescent finish, the lace carried a subtle metallic sheen. With every movement, the fabric caught the light, creating even more depth when layered under lace jackets adorned with jewel brooches.
One stand out was an all lace black gown featuring an incredible drop waist skirt with a subtle drape and bustle detail. Its structural elegance reminded me of the 1930s silhouette seen in a Paquin Haute Couture design— a dress I've been thinking a lot about. The Saint Laurent atelier never ceases to amaze me.
Whether fully lace rendered or finished with delicate lace trims, the focus was consistent: class, romance, drama. Saint Laurent delivers timeless product while still bringing the theatrical moments we crave...and the winter jacket has been decided! Stunning oversized drop waist fur coats were styled alone with tights or layered over lace, adding that necessary volume to balance the collection.
In the midst of the tailoring, fur, and lace, glossy dresses emerged, recalling those from the AW25 and SS26 shows. I've had the opportunity to try on this fabric myself, the texture is rubber like and reflects the light even more beautiful in person. It is a modern contrast within the houses classic codes, experimenting with innovative materials while maintaining timeless silhouettes.
There is no question that the brand knows exactly who they are. The collection is a reflection of Saint Laurent's consistent identity, blurring the lines between androgynous sophistication and chic glamour for the effortless woman with an edge. Anthony Vacarello proceeds to elevate the house each season with precision and intention.
The Saint Laurent woman only proceeds to grow into her own: confident in her stride, tasteful in her sex appeal, always maintaining an air of mystery. We want to know her. We want to be her.
The '80s aesthetic isn't going anywhere this year. Grab your tights, statement jewelry, berry lipstick, and your highest pumps. Suddenly, I'm ready to walk through the frigid cold winter again.
Imagery owned by Saint Laurent