Anthony Vaccarello is the match that lit his world.
From the beginning, Yves Saint Laurent has ignited anticipation, mystery, and excitement in us.
As a young boy, working within the restrictions and guidelines of haute couture in the midst of war, society had turned him out to be broken at just 21 years old. In spite of shaking things up at Dior as just a boy, the expectations placed upon him were almost impossible to carry.
He cracked.
The light never faded.
In 1961, four years after Dior, Yves launched his own house with Pierre Bergé. His choices of self liberation and curious exploration reflected in everything he touched.
Androgynous. Sensual. Eclectic. Minimal.
By his retirement in 2002, the light of Yves slowly dimmed. As if a rose had only so much time before its petals fell.
We were left with an appetite that yearned for beauty, sophistication, and a craving for blood.
October 2016.
Anthony Vaccarello arrived as creative director with an assortment of matchbooks.
After years of the house moving through different interpretations of Yves, Anthony seemed to go back to the beginning.
Match by match, the light of the house grew.
Like practicing spells, he perfected it. Casting upon men and women: romance, regality, power, sensuality.
Grounded in self liberation, freedom of the body, and challenging the status quo, we felt ignited with inspiration, excitement, optimism.
Anthony solidified the Yves uniform:
Powerful dressing. Gilded glamour. Statement details.
In other words:
Suits, lace, jewels, skin, fur, jersey, embellishments, elongation, color stories, sleeves, silk, leather, proportions, stilettos, latex, sunglasses, belts, tights, black, layers, drama.
AN EXTRAVAGANZA OF DREAMS!
Anthony’s experimentation with the ingredients of Yves Saint Laurent has given us a beautiful 10 year run of passion and excitement.
At the edge of my seat, upon every collection, I know what to expect to an extent. Everything has intention and a reference, finished with his own touch.
His Spring/Summer 2027 collection celebrates his decade long career at Saint Laurent.
And the theme is gold.
There is mass speculation whether or not this is Anthony’s final bow to the house.
I will be hanging by a thread until the house themselves confirm it.
Otherwise, it’s noise…
And regardless, more importantly is what’s been done.
The light of Yves has never been about staying still. It has always been about taking the codes, pushing them somewhere else, and making us want more.
Anthony understood that.
And for ten years, he gave us plenty to want.
“The light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains” - Anthony Vaccarello
The light will shine forever.
Read past article: “Fashion’s Fade, But Why is Saint Laurent Forever?”